Frequently Asked Questions

Here, we answer your most frequently asked questions.

For even more answers please refer to Paints and Lacquers - Application and Ecology (PDF file, 132 kB, 16 pages).

Regarding Mineral Paints:

Question: When reconstructing facades, how can I also provide a durable protection to the foundation?

Answer: A common phenomenon, not only in historical structures: ascending humidity carries along structure-damaging salts that slowly but surely destruct plasters and coatings in the base area. The result: flaking and efflorescences. Of course, mere recoating won’t solve this constant problem. Depending on degre and extent, a horizontal insulation, waterproofing and/or application of a reconstruction plaster might be required. And after that, BEECK mineral paints will provide perfectly water vapor permeable coats.

Question: Why do mineral paints hardly get dirty even though they are so porous?

Answer: Many practical examples show that only after a few years synthetic resin based facade paints are covered with a black-grey film while silicate paints keep their clean and proper look for a long time. Thanks to the open-pored coating, mineral paint treated facades are, on an annual average, drier and thus less sensitive to mold and fungus including the deposit of pollutants. Furthermore, synthetic resin based paints are more or less thermoplastic which is why they tend to irreversibly bond dust and pollutants. While mineral paints, and that includes the dirt deposits on the surface, are continuously subject to weathering, a synthetic resin film will “age” under the influence of UV radiation in terms of brittling and crack formation. This bark of paint will soil, crack, and get increasingly affected by algae growth. Reconstruction will require high-pressure cleaning, stripping, and the use of fungicidal chemicals to control the problem.

Question: Mineral paint or natural paint? Which one for walls indoors?

Answer: From an indoor air quality point of view, both mineral and plant based natural paints are suitable. Natural resin wall paints offer certain advantages in living areas: Their processing is easy even for do-it-yourselvers and the paint may be applied to virtually any surface indoors (gypsum, wallpaper, old coatings).
Mineral paints, however, require a well prepared mineral substrate (lime or lime cement plaster, natural or sandstone, concrete) and are absolutely perfect for rooms with a high relative humidity of the air. Application preferably in public and commercial buildings.

Question: Isn’t preparing the mineral plaster with BEECK ETCHING FLUID harmful to the environment?

Answer: Not when used properly! Preparation with 3 to 5 parts water produces a highly thinned mineral acid that is applied to the still alkaline new plaster in order to remove the plaster’s sinterskin. It takes only a few minutes until the simple neutralization reaction is completed, forming water insoluble salts in the process. This ensures that no mineral acids will contaminate the ground when rinsing the facade with clear water. Requirement: Application strictly according to manufacturer’s instructions.
Removing the unavoidable sinterskin layers is almost a must for true mineral paints since only then, the pore system will be ready for a silicification of the paint in the plaster.

Regarding AGLAIA Natural Paints

Question: Can I recoat a wall using AGLAIA wall paints when it has been coated with traditional dispersion paints?

Answer: For renovating old wall coats on a firmly sticking coarse grained paper or fabric wallpaper AGLAIA Natural Resin Wall Paints are ideal. Having been properly prepared, even troublesome surfaces such as latex paints and flaking or chalking old coatings may again be renovated considering building physics aspects. For details refer to Technical Application Guide AGLAIA Wall Paints and Plasters.

Question: Which product is recommendable for people with allergies?

Answer: Since there isn’t the „one“ allergy nor a completely „allergy indifferent“ product it is recommended to always check and compare the individual ingredients contained in a product, based on the AGLAIA Full Declaration Water thinnable and solvent-free products such as the ones of the AGLAIA AQUASOL series, are particularly mild. Contrary to „Blue Angel“ products,they exclusively contain natural raw materials, and all the ingredients are stated. If you should still have doubts, please ask for our original free-of-charge samples of individual products.

Question: How durable are wood coatings outdoors?

Answer: Whether a coat will last on wood rather depends on the wood’s quality and its processing (keyword: constructive wood preservation) than on the coating material. The actual extent of weathering is a decisive factor, e.g. a projecting roof may help to protect a wooden window (and the coating) long-term. Reference values for maintenance intervals are given in the Technical Information Sheets. They normally comply with traditional synthetic resin products.
Wood outside in general requires maintenance. An annual check and timely reworking of weathered areas (of particular importance regarding the weather grooves of wooden windows) saves you from expensive reconstruction if maintenance schedules are ignored.

Question: What about waxing wooden floors? Is is required or recommended?

Answer: There are many ways to treat floors, so refer to our Technical Application Guide “Treating Floors”. for more information. In general, there are two variants, the traditional „oiling and waxing“ and the application of a thin superficial resin oil layer, i.e. the use of AGLAIA HARD RESIN OIL. For the first variant, you may e.g. use AGLAIA PORE FILLER no surface film since any excess will be removed) and AGLAIA LIQUID WAX and, for regular care, also AGLAIA Liquid Wax (see Special Care Insruction for Floors).
Wooden, cork or stone floors treated with AGLAIA HARD RESIN OIL may, but do not necessarily have to be treated with AGLAIA LIQUID WAX.
An advantage of the LIQUID WAX treatment: higher mechanical resistance and, thus, a prolonged lifespan. Disadvantage: considerably higher expenses for care and the need to remove the wax before any repair, whereas with unwaxed HARD RESIN OIL floors anysigns of wear may be removed partially and without a transition.